Carpenter Jeans Men Definition
Source(Google.com.pk)Melville's statement is evidence that bluejeans were recognized in those days as the everyday wear of everyday Americans. More evidence comes from the career of James Douglass Williams, governor of Indiana (1876-80). He was known as "Blue Jeans" Williams because he wore bluejeans to cultivate the rural vote.More Americans now wear jeans (not always blue) on more occasions; women and men, rich and poor, in college classrooms and at parties, and to night clubs as well as to work. Designer jeans (1966) were a successful twentieth-century attempt to make jeans fashionable as well as down to earth, thus raising their humble prices.
The word "selvage" comes from the phrase
"self-edge", the natural edge of a roll of fabric. In this case, denim
made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous
cross thread (the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the
length of the bolt. As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it
creates this “self-edge” or Selvage. Selvage is desirable because the edge
can’t fray like lower grade denims that have separate wefts which leave an open
edge that must be stitched. Shuttle looming is a more time-consuming weaving
process that produces denim of a tighter weave resulting in a heavier weight
fabric that lasts.
Shuttle looms weave a more narrow piece of fabric, and thus
a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans (approximately 3
yards). To maximize yield, traditional jean makers use the fabric all the way
to the selvage edge. When the cuff is turned up the two selvage edges, where
the denim is sewn together, can be seen. The selvage edge is usually stiched
with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow, and red (red is the most
common). Fabric mills used these colors to differentiate between fabrics. Most
selvage jeans today are dyed with synthetic indigo, but natural is available in smaller niche denim labels.
Loop dying machines feed a rope of cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and
then back out. The dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip. Multiple dips
create a deep dark indigo blue.
In response to increased demand for jeans in the 1950's,
American denim manufacturers replaced the old shuttle style looms with modern
projectile looms. The new looms produced fabric faster and wider (60-inches or
wider), yet lighter and less durable. Synthetic dyeing techniques along with
post-dye treatments were introduced to control shrink and twist.
Jeans themselves are not an American invention. The word jean dates at least from the 1560s, referring to cloth of Genoa, Italy, and by the 1840s in England we read of workers in stables wearing jeans. But the association of bluejeans with cowboys and miners, and the success of the San Francisco manufacturer Levi Straus & Co., has given bluejeans and jeans an American accent known around the world.
Initially, jeans were simply sturdy trousers worn by factory workers. During this period, men's jeans had the zipper down the front, whereas women's jeans had the zipper down the left side. Fewer jeans were made during the time of World War II, but 'waist overalls' were introduced to the world by American soldiers, who sometimes wore them when they were off duty. By the 1960s, both men's and women's jeans had the zipper down the front. Historic photographs indicate that in the decades before they became a staple of fashion, jeans generally fit quite loosely, much like a pair of bib overalls without the bib. Indeed, until 1960, Levi Strauss denominated its flagship product "waist overalls" rather than "jeans".
After James Dean popularized them in the movie Rebel Without a Cause, wearing jeans became a symbol of youth rebellion during the 1950s. Because of this, they were sometimes banned in theaters, restaurants and schools.[6] During the 1960s the wearing of jeans became more acceptable, and by the 1970s it had become general fashion in the United States for casual wear.
Michael Belluomo, editor of Sportswear International Magazine, Oct/Nov 1987, P. 45, wrote that in 1965, Limbo, a boutique in the New York East Village, was "the first retailer to wash a new pair of jeans to get a used, worn effect, and the idea became a hit." He continued, "[Limbo] hired East Village artists to embellish the jeans with patches, decals, and other touches, and sold them for $200." In the early 1980s the denim industry introduced the stone-washing technique developed by GWG also known as "Great Western Garment Co.". Donald Freeland of Edmonton, Alberta pioneered the method,[8] which helped to bring denim to a larger and more versatile market. Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s to the point where jeans are now a wardrobe staple, with the average North American owning seven pairs.[9][verification needed] Currently, jeans may be seen worn by people of all genders and ages.
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